The skincare industry is worth $180 billion, and most of it is marketing. Let's cut to what the clinical evidence actually supports.
Tier 1: Gold Standard (Strong Evidence)
Retinoids — The single most evidence-backed anti-aging ingredient. Increases cell turnover, boosts collagen, reduces fine lines. Start with retinol 0.025%, build to 0.5-1%.
Sunscreen (SPF 30+) — Prevents 90% of visible aging. This is the most important product in any routine, period.
Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid 10-20%) — Antioxidant protection, brightening, collagen support. Look for stable formulations at pH 3.5 or lower.
Niacinamide (2-5%) — Reduces inflammation, strengthens skin barrier, fades hyperpigmentation. Works for virtually every skin type.
Tier 2: Strong Evidence
Hyaluronic Acid — Holds 1000x its weight in water. Apply to damp skin for best results. Multiple molecular weights penetrate different skin layers.
AHA/BHA Exfoliants — Glycolic acid (AHA) for surface exfoliation, salicylic acid (BHA) for pores. Don't exceed 2-3x per week.
Azelaic Acid — Anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, melanin-inhibiting. Excellent for acne AND hyperpigmentation.
Tier 3: Promising but Newer
Peptides — Signal-peptides like Matrixyl show promise for collagen stimulation, but evidence is thinner than retinoids.
Tranexamic Acid — Excellent early results for melasma and stubborn hyperpigmentation.
Bakuchiol — Plant-based retinol alternative. Less irritating but also less potent. Good for sensitive skin.
What to Skip
Collagen creams (molecules too large to penetrate), most "detox" products, physical scrubs with irregular particles (like walnut shell), and anything marketed as a "miracle cure."
Pro tip: Use GlowLog's Ingredient Checker to analyze any product's ingredient list for safety and effectiveness.